Delectable kebabs, scented biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has long been a haven for gastronomes, with inhabitants and visitors equally praising its exquisite cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Recently, Unesco honored it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – including it in a exclusive roster of world cities and kindling hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this title, it becomes part of a global network of over 400 cities across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "creativity as a key factor of city development that is sustainable".
The accolade "is a testament to its centuries-old food heritage and lively food ecosystem," as stated by a representative from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to secure a position in this prestigious list of 70 cities around the world.
A City Defined by Food
The honor for this historic city comes as little surprise to its inhabitants or passionate food lovers. Many agree with the opinion that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO designation, this cherished, chaotic, and vibrant city – the capital of India's biggest state – is at last in the limelight for what has consistently shaped its essence: an unparalleled devotion for food.
"'What will be cooked, the method of preparation' is a constant discussion from morning until going to bed in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are often evaluated by the standard of food that comes out of your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The Nawabi City – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th Century wealthy Muslim rulers – is noted for its tender kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were invented, evolved, and elevated to extraordinary levels in their opulent kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were centers of food experimentation, merging Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were developed. The story goes that the mutton galouti was invented to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks minced the meat with papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid tightly sealed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
In addition to the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also built up a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only highlights fresh harvests but also provides the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Virtually on every corner, there are small establishments and stalls – lesser-known treasures that are wildly popular with the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, large gatherings start milling around from early morning at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, served in clay glasses, along with incredibly soft buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can head to a no-frills joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also boasts special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert found in the winter. The process of making it is precise and involved. The cook hand-churns the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing frothy texture.
On chilly mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many however say that their children are unwilling to take up the art.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's immense food legacy places it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – shaped by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The global recognition, it is hoped, will encourage more people worldwide to learn these narratives and experience the city to taste the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
